Introduction

From November 24 to 25, 2025, I took a one-night, two-day trip to Sukayu Onsen, a hot spring famous for having the heaviest snowfall in the world.
This travel diary has three parts in total:
DAY 1 (Part 1 & Part 2) → DAY 2.
In this article, you’re reading DAY 1 – PART 1 (Arrival)!

Even though it was only November, everything was already covered in snow.
A soft sulfur scent drifted gently through the entire building.

—This is Sukayu Onsen, one of Aomori’s most iconic hot springs.

Using all five senses, I tried to capture the unique atmosphere of Sukayu just as I experienced it.

DAY 1 – PART 1: Arrival

Taking the Shuttle Bus to Sukayu Onsen

I took the free shuttle bus that departs from the Aomori Chamber of Commerce.
Apparently, I made my reservation right before the boarding location changed—
so while mine left from the Chamber of Commerce, the current meeting point is different, so be careful!

The bus was scheduled to leave at 10:15.
When I arrived at 10:00, it was already waiting.

I brought a small suitcase, and the driver stored it in the luggage compartment under the bus.
It looks like they can fit mid-sized luggage with no problem.

Right on time, the bus departed and headed from Aomori City toward Mt. Hakkōda.

Hakkōda is known for having the world’s heaviest snowfall.
As the bus climbed, the air grew colder and colder—you could feel it directly on your skin.

The snow had already melted in Aomori City, but outside the bus window… snow.
In November!! Still November… and yet, snow everywhere.
As someone who fears the harsh Aomori winter, it felt like the mountain was saying:
“Get ready. The real snow is coming.”

After about an hour, the bus arrived at Sukayu Onsen.

The forecast said –3°C the day before, so I wore a sweater + down jacket…
but surprisingly, it wasn’t that cold!
A sweater alone might be enough.
(Although if you’re from a warm country, bring a down jacket!)

And the moment I stepped off the bus—
the smell of sulfur hit me.
That’s when my excitement skyrocketed.
There’s just something about that scent that screams “You’re at a hot spring!”

I’ve heard that in some Western cultures, sulfur is associated with “the smell of hell.”
Is that true? I’m genuinely curious—tell me in the comments!

First Impressions: The Entrance & Interior

After taking plenty of photos, I entered the building and changed from outdoor shoes into slippers.

Important:
Don’t lose the shoe locker key!
Otherwise you’ll face the “hell” of not being able to retrieve your shoes later (lol)

The lower section of the locker is huge—probably meant for winter boots.
It really reminded me how extreme the snowfall must get in peak winter.

Check-in was at 15:00, so I had about four hours of free time.
I received a towel from the front desk and went off to explore.

Large luggage is stored in the designated area near the lobby,
where other guests had already placed their suitcases.

The facility map looked huge—
so huge that I figured walking around would be faster than studying the map.

So off I went.
A wander this way.

A wander that way.

Some areas felt old and nostalgic, while others were clearly newer additions.
Both had their own charm—
the smooth, time-worn wooden floors and slightly warped beams reminded me of my old elementary school.

Lunch at Onimen-an

At the back of the souvenir shop, there’s a soba restaurant.
Perfect timing for lunch, so I went in.

鬼面庵　Onimenan
Hours	10:00 AM～4:30 PM Last order: 4:15 PM

There were seasonal dishes and tempura soba,
but I chose the Sansai Soba (mountain vegetable soba).

To me, sansai (wild plants) are “the true luxury” of the mountains.
They may not have the flashy appeal of seafood or meat,
but someone has to enter the mountain—avoiding bears!—to gather them.
That alone makes them special.

The gentle bitterness, the aroma,
the crunchy bamboo shoots…
All of it blended beautifully with the rich broth and noodles.

It warmed me up after the chilly bus ride,
and it was light on the stomach—perfect before heading into the hot springs.

Onimenen uses 100% buckwheat flour—no additives, no binding agents.
If you want to taste pure soba flavor, this is the place.

And the water!
You can drink fresh spring water straight from Mt. Hakkōda.
It was SO good that I had three refills.

Water doesn’t have a sweet taste or a spicy taste,
yet when it’s truly good, your brain just screams:
“This is amazing!!”

Bottled water doesn’t even come close.
If you visit Onimenen, please drink the water.

They also had soba-yu,
but I drank too much water and had to give up (lol)

Relaxing in the Lounge

Before bathing, I went to the relaxation lounge.

Here’s the lounge (photo taken at night when no one was around).

During the day, people were reading, napping, watching TV…
Everyone was doing their own thing.
Very peaceful atmosphere.

Some seats had outlets, so people were charging their phones too.

Since it’s best to wait about an hour after eating before taking a bath,
I sat at a table in the back and read the book I brought.

Women’s Bath – My First Hot Spring Experience at Sukayu

Finally—the main event!

Sukayu Onsen has:

• the famous Sennin-buro (the giant mixed bath), and
• separate baths for men and women.

The Sennin-buro has no washing area,
so if you want to properly wash your body or hair,
you need to use the separate baths.

There is a women-only hour at the Sennin-buro from 8:00–9:00 (morning and evening),
so even if you want to avoid mixed bathing, you’re safe.

Since I wanted to avoid mixed bathing,
I started with the women’s bath.

The women’s bath is on the second floor, located way in the back.
The men’s bath is on the first floor, so this layout felt unusual—
but apparently the women’s bath is larger, which explains the location.

From here, no photography is allowed,
so I’ll describe based on memory + official photos.

There are two types of lockers:

1. Small lockers for wallets and phones — free
2. Medium lockers for handbag-sized items — 100 yen

After undressing—into the bath!

Sukayu Onsen Official Website. “Facility.”
Accessed on: 2025-11-30.
https://sukayu.jp/facility/

After undressing—into the bath!

The moment you open the door:
the sulfur scent hits you.

There was one bath and about ten washing stations.

I washed up first, then stepped into the bath.

And this bath… wow.

The official website photos look bright and airy,
but the real bath is dim and atmospheric—almost mystical.

Steam drifted across the surface like gentle waves.
The sound of water trickling in.
Hot water overflowing whenever someone stepped in or out.
The strong, healing scent of sulfur.
The milky water so opaque you couldn’t see your own hand underwater.

This is a bath you experience with your whole body.

流石湯治をする場所なだけあって、すごく身体に効きそうな湯の質でした。

After warming up, I got out and cooled my body down.
A soft breeze flowed in from somewhere,
soothing the heat on my skin.

Then I returned to the water again.
Pure relaxation.

My hands and feet gradually became warm from the inside,
and that’s when I decided to get out.

Since the hot spring is strong, long baths are not recommended—
listen to your body.

There was only one hair dryer in the women’s bath,
so I went to the powder room on the second floor.

There were six dryers there!
If the downstairs dryer is being used, go straight here.

After drying my hair,
I still had two hours before check-in,
so I went back to the lounge.

The post-bath warmth + relief of finally arriving
made me super sleepy,
so I took a one-hour nap (lol)

Next time

Room tour, dinner, and the famous Sennin-buro!
Stay tuned for Part 2 ✨